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The expedition diaries Tunisia (15-28 April 2003)


Tunisia-Tunisian Switzerland   Tunisia-Tunisian Switzerland-Vlad-Kseniya

Tunisia-Tunisian Switzerland   Tunisia-Tunisian Switzerland

Tunisia-Tunisian Switzerland   Tunisia-Tunisian Switzerland

Tunisia-Dougga   Tunisia-Dougga

Tunisia-Dougga-Oleg-Kseniya   Tunisia-Dougga

Tunisia-Dougga   Tunisia-Dougga-Vlad-Kseniya

Tunisia-Dougga   Tunisia-Dougga

Tunisia-Dougga   Tunisia-Dougga-Aliona

Tunisia-Dougga   Tunisia-Dougga

Tunisia-Dougga   Tunisia-Dougga

Tunisia   Tunisia

Tunisia-Vlad Murashkevich   Tunisia

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Dougga, ancient Roman ruins

On the way from Ghar El Melh to the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Dougga, we drove the road a long time, quite untypical of Africa, called here "Tunisian Switzerland". You scarcely believe that these Alpine meadows and mountains distinguished by dense forest vegetation are to be found on the black continent. We stop many times to take pictures against the back-cloth of these picturesque parts with no sign of man. Only quite a decent serpentine road, wound to the South, is reminiscent of the civilization.

One states that in fact DOUGGA originated from a Berber word "TUKKA" (stone jack). Judging the size of this "jack", there lived at least giant birds Rouh from "1001 Nights". The town is located on the mountain slope. From its top you discover the tremendous sight of a valley covered with a sea of olive-trees. A transparent mountain air allows taking pleasure of the picturesque scenery. This ancient must is really worth going sightseeing. By the way, we can find Dougga among the historical sights under the UNESCO protection. Some excavations are under way in its neighbourhood nowadays, but the main part of the town is available for visiting.

Our car drove up to the ruins from the wrong side. Climbing the hill, we found out unexpectedly a crypt with the rests of coffins. The stones corroded by the time kept signs of inscriptions made by cutter in Latin. Someone wished the deceased to lie peacefully. Joining this wish, we went on exploring the town.

The theater was the first stop of our sightseeing. Columns, columns over and over again, very tall walls, pieces of stones with engraved inscriptions, scattered on the ground, semicircle of the amphitheater. Plus, near the entrance there is an impressive sculpture of the sitting founder of this temple of arts. We would like to animate the remains somehow. So, we sat on the bleachers, walking in a stately gait on the stage, having a glance at the kept artistic make-up rooms. Someone even tried to perform an aria with a loud whisper of the prompter who found a suitable seat.

After this artistic action, what our "going to the theater" might relate to, we continued our way. We went on foot along "cardo maximus" - the main city street. We went barefoot to experience the hollows with our foot skin. They remained on the stone pavement from chariots - the vehicles that had vanished long time ago before "the era of cars". This street leads to the Capitol and the Forum. Unlike other similar towns, Dougga has two Forums, instead of one. One of them is intended for businessmen, the other one for artists and poets.

The Romans had built this city for ever on the fertile soil where superb wheat grew. They had forgotten nothing. You can find temples of Jupiter, Junona, Minerva and Mercury there. We come across terms (baths), and market areas, spacious comfortable houses, and many other things. Apart from the Romans there lived also indigenous people - the Berbers.

Having a stroll across Dougga, we feel a sacred spontaneous trembling towards the history. Just think what time immemorial these exhibits standing, sticking out and lying on the turning green grass refer to. Certainly, these thoughts don't keep us from touching all in a casual manner. We could not but take pictures. For example, we chose such a position behind the back of a statue lacking a head so that it had one of our heads in the picture.

A sudden strange feeling comes to our mind: everything is illusion. Dougga has been abandoned by its inhabitants recently, as the majority of buildings are in good state. And even such fine elements, like a wind rose drawn on the paved roadway of the square or mosaic floors in houses.

The walk along the city is not easy as Dougga covers dozens of hectares. In fact, all day round is needed to visit some remains at least. Finally, our car cavalcade drove one of the city streets that had lead in the past from the coast and Carthago to the South, to the Sahara sand.


Next: >>>  The light town of Sbeitla
 

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Update:
4 March 2004

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