The expedition diaries Tunisia (15-28 April 2003)                               If you want to have photo or video materials about Tunisia - write us a letter.

The light town of Sbeitla If you are fond of picturesque sand-coloured ruins, welcome to the remains of SBEITLA, or, how the inhabitants call it - SUFETULA… This ancient town lost in the Atlas Mountains appeals to be shot for advertising commercials or to be taken pictures of for a photo album. The rests of irreproachable columns prop a low bright blue sky. These ruins should be suitable somewhere in Rome, but not on the African continent. No doubt, it doesn't match the described place in a children's poetry long time ago: "In Africa panthers, in Africa gorillas, in Africa big angry crocodiles". And here we come across a forum, theatre, temples of Jove, Minerva, Junona, and water tank. Come, come, is it really Africa? Nevertheless, we are still on this dry continent. To tell the truth, the Romans built the town of SBEITLA. And they built as they could do it - similar to the cities of their far-away homeland. In the 2nd century AD they came to these lands to settle down. They knew, that they were likely to be buried here. As a result they did their best to design the city. The location was selected perfectly well - there was a crossroad of all caravans roving across the Sahara. Coming to an agreement with the Berbers, the Romans rebuilt their settlement into an eye-enticing city from stone with wide streets and comfortable buildings keeping cool air even under the scorching sky of Africa. You can barely imagine, that people went to the theatre, had a bath in terms, prayed to Gods at the temple of Jupiter hundreds of kilometers from the sea, almost on the border with the desert. An important point to add: the temple of Jupiter is out of the ordinary. It represents an amalgamation of three separate temples, two of which are devoted to Junona and Minerva. The market area covered the center of Sbeitla, the streets formed a circle and the rests of ancient shops where you were supposed to do the shopping. The town seems to have lasted well, but it is a false impression. Actually, unlike DOUGGA, kept in an initial state, SBEITLA was restored by archaeologists. They excavated, restoring and putting in order everything that was possible to rescue. These thick, almost meter walls can give their evidence about many things. The flourishing city with the population of 25 000 inhabitants changed its image more than once. For example, the Byzantines took care of it in the Vth century. They strengthened Sbeitla considerably, aspiring to make it defense capacity more strong. However, these efforts didn't keep Sbeitla from the final destroying in the VI century once for all. But this city is still alive. We experienced it by ourselves. If you take off your sandals in sign of respect and walk barefoot on the white stone of the pavement, a miracle will occur. The common sense might give place to lively imagination for a while, and you will see its inhabitants walking in crowded streets. They greet one another one their way, exchange break news and rumours. Women hurry to the market. Children are playing in the shade of houses. "To insert" here in the past is easy to make you surprised. In fact nobody puts a stop to wander in streets, knocking at doors (existing only in your mind), to climb the rests of walls, looking down on the buildings. Somewhere in Europe, such a place would carry red warning signs at every corner. And barriers would be placed there. Fortunately for us, all is easy and free to get to in Sbeitla. We spent here half a day and had a little desire to leave. And on our going away we bought some local souvenirs, surprisingly skilful hand-made articles, cut out by local craftsmen from one-piece stone. Next: >>>  The Atlas mountains, canyons and waterfalls

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