The expedition diaries Tunisia (15-28 April 2003)                            If you want to have photo or video materials about Tunisia - write us a letter.

The Berbers Ksars The Berbers had been expelled for centuries by anyone who felt like it. And they learnt a subtle art how to survive, as nobody. Their dwellings can give their evidence - caves put out of sight in hills. Don't forget about THE KSARS - the fortresses they built for being protected against aggressors. Sometimes KSARS were used as warehouses to stock foodstuffs. Let your eye fall on a mixture of bastions lasted well or not. No doubt, nobody lives there, nothing to store for a long time. The majority of them are empty, maybe, except for two or three most convenient premises. Artisan's shops with handmade souvenirs are situated in them. As a matter of fact, one of KSARS on our way possesses a commendable Berber restaurant materializing in "cave's" rooms. We broke for having a snack there. This fortified city is organic to your great surprise. It merges with the surrounding nature. Furthermore, it is likely to be a natural part of the landscape at first or even at second sight. Long and narrow no-windowed rooms rise in majestic succession one above another like beer honeycombs. Curved staircases with steps cut out in sandstone lead to the first and second floors. All entrance apertures differ in view of size and form. Low and strong ceilings welcome you to walk. We are looking forward to experiencing it. Besides, we climb everything that is easy to find out, discovering the rests of utensils, primitive tools and other signs of "civilization" in some premises. Finally, we get out of the must to the daylight. KSARS were not intended to be a permanent residence of the community. As a rule, they were constructed at a certain distance from the main settlement, usually on a hill to observe the surrounding area and to see enemy coming. At peace time KSARS served fairly often as barns or warehouses to stock foodstuffs. While the life was taking its course, the fortresses were empty. As soon as Berbers faced a threat, all of them left the settlement for finding themselves in fortress, ready to fight. Surely, at present only vague hints are reminiscent of previous wars, as the fortresses are desert. The next KSAR in the TATAOUIN area that we took a lively interest in looked as if desert and lonely. But only until dozens of our eyeful Citroens drove up to the central square. They formed a strict line in close proximity to the internal fortifications, creating colourful "crowd" in the ancient Berber town. Two white dogs visualized from anywhere as quick as lightning wagging tails in a diligent manner in sign of our respect. The local people followed them. A convivial fraternization of the Tunisian people with the rally participants took place. The locals enjoyed being taken pictures of against the backcloth of screwed cars. The Frenchmen took their address, promising to send a photo. In general, the town came to life and was set in motion. Arabic, French and other languages, laughter, hubbub, clicking shutters of cameras from everywhere. All calmed down only as soon as the arranged caravan of the numbered cars with united honks of klaxons left the fortress. No look back, no regrets. And the ancient KSAR plunged again into rest and silence, as if the Berber soldiers had left it for the last time. Next: >>>  Amphitheatre in El Jem

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